Printing and Painting

For how-to info and videos on my miniatures see my YouTube page at

STL files setups

The STL files come with infantry typically on strips of 2 to 4 figures and Mounted figures come on strips of two. The advantage to resin models is that these can be clipped apart to allow for a variety of basing options and combinations. This creates a more realistic stand of models giving real character to a unit. 


I am by no means an expert in 3D printing. This is good because if I can do it, I am confident that you can as well. There is an amazing amount of information out there on 3D printing. I suggest looking up those resources to help you out. Adjusting your printer settings for your printer and resin is important and experimenting with this is necessary.

I have found good results by mixing a flexible resin such as Siraya Tech tenacious with the standard grey resin. For 6mm figures I use a mix of 30-40% flexible resin to standard resin. If you scale the figures up you can cut the flexible resin back to 25% for 15mm scale. I encourage you to experiment to see what you like. 

Since these models are small, I find modeling them with the supports already attached is the best way to get successful prints. You can print these models without supports and straight on the plate this will distort the model a bit especially at the feet and lower legs. I recommend printing the models with supports and a platform. I place them together in the slicing program so that they print off in a strip which makes it easy to paint and remove from the plate. I use the lightest setting when adding supports and platforms. 

My files can be scaled up to 15mm. For scaling up to 10mm I recommended increase them by 150% and for 15mm I recommend 220%. In my experiments with this I found that adding extra supports was helpful the larger you scaled the miniatures. 


Resin printing requires an UV cure after the models have been printed and cleaned. Remember that resin printing is toxic and you need to follow all the proper precautions to keep you and your living space clean and safe. Again, there are numerous videos and articles out there on how best to clean and cure your models once they have been printed. Keep in mind with these models being small and some pieces are thin, over curing can cause these to break more easily.


Once the model is cleaned and cured, I glue them onto popsicle sticks with white glue or wood glue. This holds the model nicely but can easily be removed once painted. Making sure your models are cleaned and cured properly is key to good painting. I simply spray paint the base coat on the models. Sometimes this is a simple grey or a base color that the majority of the model will have. Then I paint as if I were dressing the model; beginning with the skin and working my way out to the outer layers. Sometimes I skip the skin first and paint it last. I find that I can paint a batch of the 60 or 80 infantry figures in about 45 minutes give or take depending on the quality and detail of the model. I have some tutorials on my YouTube page on painting 6mm miniatures. There are other tutorials out there. As with all things, it takes practice. One last tip for painting the smaller scales is to go brighter than you normally would. Once a wash is put on at the end and the sealant coat is put on, those colors tend to dull down and the brighter colors help to create contrast which allow the detail to pop out more. 


The advantage to these STL files is that the base for the miniatures is thin compared to the cast miniatures. This means it's easier to hide the puddle base and blend it into the basing material. I glue my models to my wood base with CA glue. White or wood glue is used to attach the basing material, but I find that if that glue is used to attach the resin to the base it tends to release too easily.